(If there ever was a promotional video for Chinese food - and how to cook it - this would be it…)
CAST: Sihung Lung, Yu-Wen Wang, Chien-Lien Wu, Kuei-Mei Yang, Sylvia Chang, Winston Chao, Lester Chit Man-Chan, Chao-Jung Chen, Ya-lei Kuei, Yu Chen.
DIRECTOR: Ang Lee
WARNING: Some SPOILERS and potential uncontrollable jonesing for General Tso’s Chicken - straight ahead…
Before Ang Lee helmed BROKEBACK MOUNTAIN, a masterpiece about one very complicated relationship, he helmed another masterpiece about a very complicated relationship. Or, rather, a network of very complicated relationships. The film was released in 1994 and is titled EAT DRINK MAN WOMAN. Chronicling the ups and downs in the lives of a famed Taipei chef and his three very different daughters, EAT DRINK MAN WOMAN was such a success not only in the Far East, but also the rest of the world, that it spawned several western remakes.
There was SOUL FOOD (1997), which put an African-American spin on the drama. In 2001, there was TORTILLA SOUP, which told the same exact story - but with a Hispanic-American flavor. As good and entertaining as these films were, they still don’t equal the original Taiwanese film that inspired them. EAT DRINK MAN WOMAN is a modern classic of the Food Flick Genre, and all the spin-offs, rip-offs, and clones that came after just don’t compare. Well, TORTILLA SOUP comes very close - but it’s still no EAT DRINK MAN WOMAN.
Our story revolves around Master Chef Chu (Sihung Lung). He’s retired from a highly-successful career running one of Taipei’s most renowned restaurants. He still cooks, though. Religiously, and - as we see in the opening credits - with the passion and dedication of a true artist. And the weekly showcase for his efforts? Dinner with his three grown daughters, who still live with him.
Before you start freaking out and asking why in the holy hell three grown women would still be living at home with Pops, let me assure you it’s not that bizarre. See, in Asia (as in Italy and Spain), it is very common for sons and daughters to live with their parents until they get married. Actually, it’s more than common - it’s expected. America and Northern Europe seem to be the only areas of the globe that believe in tossing children out onto their asses as soon as they hit 18.
Chu’s daughters are: (1) Jia-Jen (Kuei Mei-Yang), eldest daughter and dowdy-dresser who is still heartbroken from a disastrous affair almost a decade ago; (2) Jia-Chien (Chien-Lien Wu), ambitious middle daughter and savvy airline executive who inherited her father’s cooking talent and hides her feelings; and (3) Jia-Ning, youngest daughter still in college who also works at Wendy’s. Yes, folks… the youngest born of Taipei’s best chef works at Wendy’s. No wonder there’s usually tension at the dinner table during these weekly meals.
The girls are concerned for Chu, because it appears that his cooking skills have been slipping a little lately. But they don’t have much time to ponder this, though, because each of them have their own dramas to deal with: (1) Jia-Jen has to put up with the attentions of a hunky new volleyball coach at the school she teaches at - then a series of mysterious love letters from a secret admirer; (2) Jia-Chien is planning to move out of Chu’s house and buy her own flat, but conflict comes with a job offer to move to Amsterdam - as well as the appearance of Li-Kai (Winston Chao), corporate negotiator who becomes romantically interested in her; (3) and Jia-Ning finds herself attracted to her best pal’s boyfriend (Chao-Jung Chen).
Chu’s got romantic travails of his own: the return of his next door neighbor, Madame Liang (Ya-Lei Kuei). Madame Liang is like an Italian chick in a Chinese crone’s body: she’s unexpectedly aggressive, flirts like a champ, and just won’t take no for an answer. Hard to tell if Chu is falling for her - or simply wanting to keep her from going Full-Tilt Banshee on him. Things are further complicated when Madame Liang’s daugher, Jin-Rong (Sylvia Chang), and her grand-daughter, Shan-Shan (Yu-Chien Tang), enter the old man’s orbit.
As the story unfolds, complications arise and passions are aroused. Meanwhile, we get shot after shot of scrumptious and mouth-watering Chinese food being prepared. It’s almost a relief to switch back to the drama going on between all the characters because you don’t feel the same compulsion to lick the screen as you do when the scene involves food. Electric shocks to the tongue are not fun. On that, you can trust me.
So… will Jia-Jen find out who her secret admirer is? Will the answer make her rejoice? Or send her into remorse? Will Jia-Chien move to Amsterdam to further her career? Or will she finally embrace her God-given cooking skills and show her Pops that his talent will not end with him? Will Jia-Ning choose her best friend over her growing forbidden love for her best friend’s boyfriend? For that matter, what about Chu’s own secret love? Is it Madame Liang - or someone completely unexpected?
See for yourself. But have a friend tie you down so you won’t jump at the screen with your tongue sticking out every time a scene of Chu or Jia-Chien cooking appears onscreen. You’ll thank me later…
BUT, SERIOUSLY: Following in the footsteps of Ang Lee’s previous effort, THE WEDDING BANQUET (1993), EAT DRINK MAN WOMAN explores the same themes as that earlier film: the importance of family, the complexity of love, and - yes - the power of good food. Actually, EAT DRINK MAN WOMAN takes that last bit even further. The result is a film that is warm, entertaining, profound, exhilarating, and hunger-inducing - all at the same time.
Director Ang Lee deftly introduces and juggles his extended cast of characters. His technique is to show each character engaging in some sort of activity unique to him/her for a few seconds - then cutting away to let what we saw sink in. He does this over and over again until we start to paint a picture of each role. For example, a series of simple shots of each of the daughters going about their daily lives is all we need to start building a picture of who they are. Relying purely on visuals, we are able to deduce that Jia-Jen is not really the aloof ice queen that she’s initially portrayed to be - and has frissons of fire underneath. We intuit that the coolly confident Jia-Chieng has everything that a young, rising executive could ask for - but is still vaguely dissatisfied and missing something. We sense that Jia-Ning is smart - but not as smart as she thinks she is, especially when she falls for someone she never thought she would. Or, as someone once said, the heart makes fools of us all.
No bigger fool than Chu, though, whose unexpected soulmate is the most surprising of all. It certainly surprised me. I won’t reveal her identity here, but suffice it to say, this plot twist subscribes to the adage that says, “Love is what happens when you’re busy making other plans.” Chu’s romantic subplot is vital to the quirky nature of the film - and also in making it easy for him to let go of his daughters and live a life of his own.
The entire cast is terrific. The standouts are Sihung Lu as the confused and troubled patriarch, and Chien-Lien Wu as Jia-Chien, who is every bit as stubborn and fiery as her father - and just as talented in the kitchen. The most compelling scene in the film shows Jia-Chien having to choose between moving to Amsterdam to be the first female Vice President of her company - or staying in Taipei to pursue her love of cooking. Which is in her blood.
Quietly terrific, but also larger-than-life where it needs to be, EAT DRINK MAN WOMAN is a modern masterpiece that reminds us that the best things in life start at home - especially the kitchen. Ang Lee creates a bewitching film that will put a smile on your face - and a growl in your stomach.
